Hontambere

Armagnac Roadtrip

Château de Hontambere

As we are now well into 2024, we cannot help but reflect back on our very first Armagnac Roadtrip. We’ve written about this before, and we’ll do so again: the Armagnac region is idyllic and picturesque, a spectacular region in a country that is densely populated with spectacular landscapes. The region’s people are impossibly generous and sincere. And Armagnac the spirit is seemingly endless in its diversity of style, taste, and sensation.

We’ll always hold Cognac near and dear to our hearts, but truth be told: Armagnac deserves to be discussed more, tasted more, and explored more. There’s just so much to fall in love with. So let’s continue our Armagnac Roadtrip with Chateau de Hontambere.

Sylvain (cellar master and distiller)

Cindy

Hontambere is where we’re going, but let’s not forget where we’ve come from. Lassalle Baqué showcases an unmatched distillation know-how, as Remi Brocardo is one of the region’s highly skilled distillateur ambulantes. Domaine de Danis is our undisputed queen of Folle Blanche, as they have been distilling only that grape variety since 1982. L’Encantada is THE negociant-eleveur of the region, analogous to Grosperrin in Cognac. And Marcillac oozes authenticity, sincerity and utmost quality in their quiet corner of the Armagnac region.

So you see, we’re not just trying to visit and present producers who we think produce Armagnacs of quality. We are trying to visit and showcase those who have some key differentiators in the way they work, distill, age, and produce Armagnac. And above all, we are thrilled to work with people we think are genuinely great people.

Which brings us to Chateau de Hontambere, which presents a beautiful alliance between old stock they possess and domaine-produced young Armagnac, distilled at a high degree, always bottled at cask strength, and with some fascinating oak policies. Let's dive in.

The Domaine

In 2008, Chateau de Hontambere embarked on a new chapter following its purchase by the current owner. Some important renovations and constructions were kickstarted at the estate both to modernize but also to create practical production facilities. Over four to five years, this work on the property took place refreshing not just the historic buildings but also modernizing the production facilities and aging cellars. Additionally, this period marked a departure from the traditional use of a travelling distiller (distillateur ambulant), in favor of distilling themselves at the property with their very own alambic - more on that later.

From A to Z Chateau de Hontambere's operations rest in the hands of a small and very capable team. Cindy spearheads marketing and sales, complementing Sylvain’s expertise in all production aspects - viticulture, harvest, vinification, distillation, and aging - among many other things. Sylvain, aided by one other assistant, manages the intricate production tasks, ensuring the high standards of Armagnac production are met year after year. Moreover, Christine lends a hand with communications, particularly for export markets, completing this dynamic, compact, and agile team. Their collective efforts showcase the impressive dedication and commitment to maintaining the highest quality for the Chateau de Hontambere's Armagnac production.

The Vineyard

Chateau de Hontambere's vineyard, while once a modest 12 hectares, has now grown to just over 40 hectares, including a satellite plot a few kilometers away from the actual property - but still in the same terroir.

Cindy is quick to point out that this 40 or so hectare amount is optimal for what the small team can handle while still remaining steadfast in their commitment to quality. To exceed 40 hectares would require additional manpower, or else they could risk flirting with a diminishment of quality - which is absolutely not on the table for them. The terroir is predominantly sand, (sable jaune), boulbene, and elements of clay and limestone, which is fairly typical of the Tenareze production zone.

The expansion to 40 hectares has allowed Hontambere to use the primary four grape varieties allowed for Armagnac production: 14 hectares dedicated to Ugni Blanc, 9 hectares to Baco, 6 hectares to Folle Blanche, and 6 hectares to Colombard. They also have 7 hectares four kilometers outside of the domaine grounds, but as those vines are planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon, they yield wine that will be sold off to eventually be made into Cotes de Gascogne wine. They practice a reasoned viticulture approach - raisonée in French - not organic.

The vineyard's sustainable approach is matched by its strategic focus. While the estate doesn't produce any Cotes de Gascogne wine, it smartly utilizes its resources, selling wine either for Cotes de Gascogne (that plot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon) production or for distillation, as deemed necessary based on the climatic conditions of the year, and based on nature’s yield.

This not only bolsters their treasury but also allows for continuous investment in the estate, like acquiring new barrels - something that became particularly evident when entering the chai.

The Armagnac region does not have the equivalent of the Big Four Cognac houses (Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier), so the lack of a major regional locomotive requires producers to explore options with Cotes de Gascogne wine. Since this label of wine is one of France’s most exported white wines, most producers either produce some under their own name, or sell off some wine to be made into Cotes de Gascogne.

But let’s be clear, Chateau de Hontambere distills virtually all of its 40 hectares for its own Armagnac production. They do not buy-in wine or eau-de-vie to complement their Armagnac production. We can rest assured that the Chateau has an incredibly bright future ahead of itself.

Harvesting at Chateau de Hontambere is done mechanically, with very capable machinery which gently and quickly harvests the grapes, ensuring maximum grape health and fresh juice. With the vineyard's close proximity to the production facilities, production facilities that were built or renovated with functionality in mind, grapes can be quickly harvested and processed, ensuring minimal oxidation and maximum preservation of aromatic qualities. The use of a pneumatic press, which operates slowly to prevent oxygen contact, further exemplifies the estate's commitment to quality.

As we have heard from other Armagnac producers and many of our dear Cognac producers: A good eau-de-vie depends entirely on having a good quality wine. There is just no substitute for that.

The Alambic

Chateau de Hontambere's journey in Armagnac distillation reached a significant milestone a few years ago with the acquisition of a century-old alambic. This prized possession brings immense pride to the estate. As we saw the alambic ourselves in the company of the Hontambere crew, we could not help but sense this pride as Sylvain and Cindy showed us the various parts of the old but highly functional precision distillation device.

They both speak of the alambic as if it were their child. As of 2023, the estate has celebrated its third year of distillation with this venerable alambic. Sylvain's personal connection to the alambic's previous handler provided him with invaluable firsthand experience and a deep understanding of its unique characteristics, ensuring a seamless integration into their distillation process.

This alambic, with its 14 plates in the column still, produces a spirit with an alcohol content between 65-67%. Recall that in the production of Armagnac, spirit can drip from the still between 52% and 72.4% alcohol. Sylvain’s choice to distill to 65-67% is a choice that makes the Chateau stand out compared to some of its neighboring producers. He states:

Our objective is to have a product that is extremely fine. Remember that the alambic is a concentrator. We always aim to preserve the maximum amount of aromas and the maximum complexity and distilling to a higher degree allows us to do exactly that.

Moreover, Sylvain emphasizes that it's not actually the number of plates but rather the interaction of external temperature and vapors above the plates that helps raise the spirit's alcohol degree.

Post-distillation, the alambic is meticulously disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and kept apart to preserve its integrity and prevent any off odors, once again demonstrating the estate's commitment to precision and care in every step of their Armagnac production.

Armagnac

Chateau de Hontambere's Armagnac legacy is enriched by the acquisition of Domaine Pouchegu's old stock, featuring various vintages that complement their current production that began in 2008 and continues to age to this day. Sharing a similar terroir (Pouchegu was located just down the road from Hontambere) and distillation philosophy, these mature vintages align seamlessly with Chateau de Hontambere's style. This old stock ranges from the 1970s up to the early 2000s. This old stock is understandably treasured by Hontambere because it gives a glimpse of Armagnac from a bygone era, and from one of the region’s top small producers and distillers.

Also, since Chateau de Hontambere and Pouchegu share more or less the same terroir, the same distillation style, and the same aging philosophy, these Pouchegu treasures can provide a glimpse of what is to come for the Chateau’s very own production. Of course, in Armagnac and in Cognac, the notion of time is prolonged, so one must wait for such gems to reveal themselves.

Hontambere has two aging cellars, including a recently renovated onsite cellar with plans to add another, enhancing their capacity to mature their exclusively brut de fut (cask strength) Armagnacs.

Their production process is meticulous and quite Burgundian in its approach. Each grape variety is vinified, distilled, and aged separately, much like how a Meursault winemaker will religiously keep his or her plots of vines harvested, vinified, and aged separately.

Sure, there is a desire to let the terroir manifest itself, but there is also a strong desire to let each grape variety display its inherent characteristics. Therefore, every single barrel that rests in one of the Hontambere chai can technically be considered a single barrel single grape cask strength Armagnac.

This Burgundian approach allows for a broad spectrum of flavors and profiles, providing Sylvain with the flexibility to blend these distinct eaux-de-vie at the final stage if desired. This method contrasts with the practices in Cognac production, where most producers will work on their annual “coupe”, which are essentially perpetual consistent blends.

In the Chai

Chateau de Hontambere's chai is a sight to see, and it is home to a vast array of new oak barrels. This chai sits in stark contrast with those - Armagnac or Cognac - that are full of century old barrels, dripping in humidity, and black torula mold creeping up the walls. Barrels are sourced from renowned wine-focused coopers such as Ricard, Francis M, Saury, Ermitage, Selmer, Bartholomo, and more. Sylvain's penchant for experimentation is evident in his preference for fine and extra fine grain oak with a light chauffe, a choice that sets the estate apart in the Armagnac world. These premium barrels, although costly, are key to achieving the distinctive character and unique maturity of their eaux-de-vie.

To be clear, a majority of producers we’ve come into contact with are using oak from the southwest with a medium to strong chauffe. We know how that can mark the spirit, giving its color, tannins, and often a strong oak signature. But Sylvain at Hontambere is going a completely different route. He is sourcing barrels from many coopers that primarily supply France’s iconic wine regions, the oak is not always from the southwest, the grain is fine or extra fine and the chauffe is light. This is a radical departure - and a brilliant one - although costly.

The cellar, while containing some traditional wider grain Limousin oak barrels, truly comes alive with Sylvain's favored fine and extra fine grain barrels. Sylvain says:

These barrels can really make things that I think will vibrate or resonate once the eau-de-vie reaches maturity.

And in some cases, he sees that these eaux-de-vie can reach maturity much earlier than we’d typically think. Even just 5-6 years in these barrels can lead to some fantastic results. The alcoholic degree is still high but everything really comes together.

We would know: we tasted a handful of young folle blanche and baco in the 2-4 year old range that already showed tremendous promise.

Opting for these rare oak barrels, which are about 30% more expensive than typical Limousin oak, is a testament to Chateau de Hontambere's commitment to quality over cost. This strategic choice in barrel selection reflects the estate's dedication to crafting Armagnacs of unparalleled quality and character, setting a standard for excellence.

Again it begs to be said, that the diversity in the Armagnac region is astounding. It's fascinating to visit each of these producers, ask questions and listen to them passionately defend what they do and why they do it. Heck, we have three producers in a tiny radius of one another (Hontambere, Danis and Lassalle Baqué) and each has a radically different approach to making Armagnac. For Hontambere, the difference makers in our eyes are as follows:

Distillation to a high 65-67% alcohol level
Fine or extra fine grain oak with only a light chauffe
Emphasis on the use of new barrels

Let's Taste

We tasted more than we can possibly remember during the visit, so here is a brief recap of some of the highlights. We really do see how the Hontambere young stock compliments the mature Pouchegu stock aging at the domaine today. The high distillation degree seems as though it will allow the Hontambere Armagnac to go the distance aging gracefully without gaining so much as a wrinkle through the years. It’s evident that Sylvain and Cindy have a patient vision for what is being produced today, and even though many of these Armagnacs will likely shine with age, so many are already developing beautiful noses and mouthfeels with just a few years in barrel. Very fine!

And it goes without saying, anything bottled at Chateau de hontambere is natural in color, non-chill filtered, and at its natural cask strength.

XO: A blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc, aged separately, boasting a 56.6% ABV. Aged 10-12 years, it's smooth without aggressiveness, embodying finesse and aromatic richness. Fresh fruit and a pleasing oak profile are notable, with Ugni Blanc adding attack and length, and Colombard providing structure.
2008 Colombard: The first vintage from the property and one of the components of the XO blend above, offered unblended to showcase its qualities. Notably extroverted, aromatic, and expressive, with a zesty citrus touch, it's integral in balancing blends like the XO.
2008 Ugni Blanc: Also a component of the XO tasted above. Tasted unblended, this varietal is less expressive but apt for aging, offering a drier, firmer texture reminiscent of some Cognacs. Intact and chiseled, but less generous at this stage.
2000 (Pouchegu stock): Sourced from the purchased Pouchegu stock, this 100% Ugni Blanc Armagnac is full of character, reflecting the shared terroir with Chateau de Hontambere.
1987 (Pouchegu stock): Another Pouchegu vintage, offering a unique, dense profile with sharp notes, fruit, and citrus, especially notable in an empty glass.
1970 (Pouchego stock): Exhibiting a salted butter caramel profile, this vintage differs markedly from others, with a mature, sophisticated, and high-quality character, slightly bitter on the finish.

After a short stroll through the garden and a walk through the vinification site, including a close up look at the alambic, we entered the cellar to taste a handful of younger Armagnacs directly from barrel.

2019 Folle Blanche: Distilled in extra fine grain oak from Allier, this young spirit shows whisky-like notes, high alcohol (64%), and pristine fruit freshness.
Young Bacos: The 1.5-year-old Baco, in a new Burgundy oak barrel, is spicy with a wild personality, while the 2.5-year-old version is more refined yet still spicy and anise-flavored.
2014 Folle Blanche: Elegant, with a good attack and 55% alcohol, it's a fine representation of the variety, wearing its alcohol content gracefully.

The Armagnacs

All Chateau de Hontambere Armagnacs are bottled at their natural cask strength, that is with no water reduction at all. And it goes without saying there are no additives (sugar, color) whatsoever.

All Armagnacs are limited in stock - first come, first served.

Hontambère Vintage 1977 Armagnac

Hontambère Vintage 1977 Armagnac

Sold out. Sorry, you missed it.

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze
Bottle size: 750ml
ABV: 49.8%
Vintage year: 1977
Grape Varieties: Ugni Blanc
Armagnac age: Vintage

Tasting review

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Nose: The aroma doesn't leap out; instead, it pulls the nose into the glass, revealing an almost haunting complexity. Dominated by noble oak and the distinctive rancio characteristic of a notably mature Armagnac, it unfolds layers of buttery pastries and salted butter caramel. A savory note blends intriguingly with exotic Indian-like spices, perhaps a hint of curry, adding a unique and unexpected twist. Dried fruits and fruit pastes enrich the bouquet, creating a depth that signals a mature style, devoid of any apparent signs of youth, yet never appearing tired. This Armagnac introduces the senses to a different universe compared to other offerings.

Palate: The palate is an extension of the nose, with the finest tannins lending a texture that's both luxurious and intricate. The savory backbone is complemented by the richness of salted butter caramel and the complex sweetness of the various dried fruits. The exotic spices continue to weave through. This mature Armagnac showcases a balance that's remarkably refined and singular. Full of life and intrigue.

Finish: Very long and contemplative, the finish invites you to close your eyes, breathe in and out, and simply reflect on the depth and complexity of what’s just been smelled and tasted. The finest tannins persist. The lingering aftertaste combined with the mature essence of oak, rancio, and a flavors of spices and fruits, encapsulates a mature style that is undeniably wonderful and endlessly fascinating.

Product description

Hontambère Vintage 1977 Armagnac The Hontambère Vintage 1977 Armagnac stands as a hallmark of exceptional craftsmanship and the rich tradition of the Ténarèze region. Distilled from Ugni Blanc grapes, this exquisite spirit has been aged for 44 years in cask D10 within a dry warehouse, ensuring its profound complexity and elegance. Bottled at cask strength of 49.8%, it encapsulates the essence of its vintage year, offering a unique and memorable tasting experience.This Armagnac comes from th...

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Hontambère Vintage 1993 Armagnac

Hontambère Vintage 1993 Armagnac

$ 153

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze
Bottle size: 700ml
ABV: 52.9%
Vintage year: 1993
Armagnac age: Vintage

Tasting review

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Nose: The aroma showcases plenty of mature notes, draped in a cloak of fine oak. A hint of fragrant cedar plank adds an extra layer of sophistication, while the scent of salted butter caramel provides a sweet, indulgent undertone. Dried fruits, nutty nuances, and specific notes of fig jam and quince paste create an intricate bouquet that pulls you in, arresting the nose with its complexity and quiet strength. The impression is of a spirit that has aged gracefully, showing zero wrinkles despite its age.

Palate: On the palate, the spirit reveals a robust and characterful profile. The mature notes continue to unfold, enveloped in the sophisticated embrace of fine oak. The fragrant wood plank gives way to the richer, deeper flavors of salted butter caramel, dried reddish fruits, and a distinct toffee and/or nutty note. The fig and quince paste are still present and add layers of complexity and sweetness. The palate is engaged fully, captivated by the spirit's refined, compelling, and notably robust character.

Finish: The finish is long and satisfying. As the flavors slowly fade, the spirit's robust character and quiet strength remain. Despite its age, the spirit feels fresh and vibrant - full of life. It’s a sophisticated Armagnac that arrests the senses and invites some reflection.

Product description

Hontambère Vintage 1993 Armagnac The Hontambère Vintage 1993 Armagnac, emerging from Pouchegu's esteemed old stock, is a testament to the art of Armagnac production. Nestled in the heart of Armagnac Ténarèze, Château de Hontambère focuses on crafting Armagnac with unparalleled passion and expertise, leveraging a mix of traditional grape varieties to produce expressions of remarkable depth and complexity. This vintage Armagnac from 1993 is bottled at an ABV of 52.9%....

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Hontambère XO Rare Armagnac

Hontambère XO Rare Armagnac

$ 115

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze
Bottle size: 700ml
ABV: 53.2%
Grape Varieties: Ugni Blanc & Colombard
Armagnac age: XO

Tasting review

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Nose: Très sage (French for: very wise) in its expression, the nose offers a profound depth and complexity. Melted aromas indicate a seamless integration of elements, where spice, oak, and fruit find a harmonious alliance. Fresh, dried, and spiced stewed fruits all accounted for. The result is a bouquet that is more than the sum of its parts, showcasing good definition. Sharp and tidy.

Palate: On the palate, this spirit demonstrates a remarkable balance with good fruit richness. The depth is palpable, with each sip revealing layers of complexity. The alliance between spice, oak, and fruit is even more pronounced here, contributing to a well-defined and textured experience. One does not even notice the cask strength alcohol level. A resolutely modern XO blend - in the very best of ways!

Finish: The finish continues the theme of depth and complexity, leaving a lasting impression of melted aromas and integrated flavors. The dried and stewed fruits linger, gradually fading. Finely tannic impression on the cheeks but all in check. Persistent and deep

Product description

Hontambère XO Rare Armagnac Experience the epitome of Armagnac tradition with the Hontambère XO Rare Armagnac, a masterpiece from the Château de Hontambère in the Ténarèze subregion. Crafted with no additives, dilution, or artificial coloring, this elixir encapsulates the essence of its rich heritage through a meticulous distillation and aging process. The Extra Old variant stands out with its exquisite notes of vanilla, plum, and subtle woody flavors, elegantly balanced by the maturation...

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Hontambère Vintage 2008 Colombard Armagnac

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Hontambère Vintage 2008 Colombard Armagnac

$ 119

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze
Bottle size: 700ml
ABV: 54.7%
Vintage year: 2008
Grape Varieties: Colombard
Armagnac age: Vintage

Tasting review

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Nose: The aroma is a vibrant blend of spicy, fresh and youthful oak notes, immediately captivating the senses with its intensity. Extroverted. The bouquet is enriched by an assortment of light candied fruits and sweet citrus, adding a layer of complexity and sweetness. The oak presence is very well-measured - smells of very quality oak - providing a refined backdrop that enhances the overall aromatic profile without dominating the other notes.

Palate: Chiseled and textured, the palate offers a mouth-coating experience. The spice comes through boldly, perfectly complemented by the lush sweetness of candied fruits. Dried fruits add depth and a layer of complexity, while the very well-measured oak contributes a tannic structure that works well with the other notes. The Armagnac wears its alcohol very well. To be sure, it’s intense but with no hard edges.

Finish: On the finish, tannins assert themselves, bringing a welcome bite that's beautifully intertwined with the continuing spice. This structured finish is offset by the lovely texture and lingering sweetness of the fruit notes.

Product description

Hontambère Vintage 2008 Colombard Armagnac Immerse yourself in the essence of the Ténarèze region with the Hontambère Vintage 2008 Colombard Armagnac. Distilled from the finest Colombard grapes, this exceptional Armagnac reflects the innovative spirit and passion of Château de Hontambère. Aged for 13 years in cask TC2 and bottled at a cask strength of 54.80%, this Armagnac showcases the meticulous care and expertise that define Hontambère's approach to winemaking. Presentation of the Bo...

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Hontambère Vintage 2019 Folle Blanche Armagnac

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Hontambère Vintage 2019 Folle Blanche Armagnac

$ 111

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze
Bottle size: 700ml
ABV: 63.3%
Vintage year: 2019
Armagnac age: Vintage

Tasting review

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Please note: The product image does not display the actual color of the product.

Nose: The aroma showcases a youthful vibrancy. Close to the alambic, distillate-forward. A fresh, grassy note (not unlike a young rhum agricole) is intertwined with the delicate scent of spring flowers, offering outstanding freshness. The fruitiness is highlighted by mirabelle and yellow plums, with a subtle sweetness from golden raisins. A waft of very fine oak adds an elegant complexity.

Palate: On the palate, the spirit is mouth-watering and dense, yet maintains an elegance despite its strength. The youthful distillate shines through with a fresh, grassy character,complemented by the juicy sweetness of those mirabelle and other yellow plums and golden raisins. The touch of very fine oak provides some structure without overpowering the fresh and fruity notes. Also, some markers of whisky.

Finish: The finish is clean and refreshing, leaving a lingering taste of fresh pristine fruits. The elegance is on full display and the finish is balanced and refined. The overall impression is vibrant and fresh, with a complex yet harmonious interplay of flavors. Young and vigorous but so fine.

Product description

Hontambère Vintage 2019 Folle Blanche Armagnac The Hontambère Vintage 2019 Folle Blanche Armagnac is a distinguished expression crafted from the Folle Blanche grape variety, renowned for its aromatic intensity and complexity. Distilled in Château de Hontambère's century-old copper still, this vintage Armagnac showcases a robust 63.3% ABV, capturing the essence of its exceptional terroir in the Ténarèze region. Please note: The product image does not display the actual color of the produc...

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Conclusion

With each and every Armagnac visit, we are getting pulled deeper and deeper into the charms of this great spirit and region. We know by now that the diversity on offer is incredibly high; that is no longer a surprise to us. But it just keeps getting reinforced with each visit we make.

Château de Hontambere is very much a havre de paix, but unlike our visit to Marcillac, for example, it does not feel as if the domaine and its grounds have been forgotten by time. There is a sense of forward movement at Hontambere. Of course, there is a respect and a keen regard towards the past and the rich traditions of the region, but with Sylvain and Cindy at the helm, they are looking and moving forward. We’d qualify their Armagnac production as modern, razor sharp in its precision, fine, and ultra high quality.

They know precisely what they are doing, why they are doing it, and for whom they are doing it.

We cannot thank them enough for their time and attention during the visit. Like so many in the region, they are genuine and generous people, keen on holding the door open into their Chateau de Hontambere universe.

Again, thank you, bravo, et on y va !