Domaine de Danis

Armagnac Roadtrip

Domaine de Danis

During our first Armagnac roadtrip, we - Max and Taylor - have quickly learned that the Armagnac region is not as vast as the Cognac region. Where in Cognac we might have an hour drive between two visits, in Armagnac it is very possible to arrange visits just ten minutes apart. So we set off along the rolling hills that meander through the Tenareze from Montréal du Gers to Castelnau-d’Auzan-Laberrère. Fifteen minutes later we drove along a calm wooded alley where the charming and charismatic Victoire Piquemal of Domaine de Danis was waiting. Whereas the Lassalle Baqué estate felt as if untouched by time, the Domaine de Danis estate instantly struck us with its close-to-nature beautiful simplicity. Just pulling up to the domaine gives rise to a sense of calm. It was immediately apparent that this was going to be a perfect fit for Bonjour Drinks.

Everything at Domaine de Danis is done as a two person team: Victoire and her brother Vincent Piquemal, since they took the helm of the production in 1992. Those early years were fraught with difficulty as frost and hail challenged their first years at the domaine. From 1975 to 1992 it was Victoire’s parents who managed the vines and Armagnac production. And before that it was her grandfather. Interestingly, in 1982 Victoire’s father made the decision to move all Armagnac production to folle blanche. Victoire’s love affair with the grape variety continues to this day, as she passionately defends the qualities and strengths of the Armagnacs it makes. More on folle blanche below…

As Vigneron Indépendants, the Piqemal’s rarely have time to spare since they do everything from A to Z at the property. Victoire herself states,

We’re very much an independent producer. We are much more into production than commerce - because we have to be. We just lack time.

Speaking of lacking time, we just happened to show up and interrupt Victoire’s inventory period, a required but tedious annual task in the cellar. We were in for a true clinic on folle blanche Armagnac.

Vineyard & Terroir (and Climate)

Domaine de Danis is situated in the commune of Castelnau-d’Auzan-Laberrère. While on paper this area is in the Tenareze Armagnac production zone (analogous to a Cognac Cru), it really rubs elbows with the borderline of the Bas-Armagnac, and has more in common with that zone than the Tenareze. Even the soil is not very Tenareze.

On my labels I do not put Tenareze because I am in the Tenareze but on sandy soils, which is not a Tenareze terroir. It’s difficult to claim a certain production zone on the label (cru) while the taste of the Armagnacs reveals themselves to not be the typical Tenareze Armagnacs.

The domaine’s vines spread over 40 hectares around the property, and are devoted to exclusively white grape varieties: sauvignon, colombard, gros manseng, folle blanche, and ugni blanc. While Cotes de Gascogne wines - a dry white and a sweet white - make up the majority of what is produced, it’s the Armagnac production which has captured our attention. Victoire holds a particular attachment to her Armagnac production.

I’ve always been quite atypical in the area.

When times were tough for Armagnac and Cotes de Gascogne wines were on the rise, many producers sidelined Armagnac production in favor of these crisp good-value export-driven wines. Forty years ago the Armagnac region was more devoted to Armagnac production; today the balance has heavily swayed towards Cotes de Gascogne, followed by a little Armagnac.

While the Armagnac region does not have anything remotely resembling the big houses of Cognac (Remy Martin, Hennessy, Martell, Courvoisier), we can consider the Cotes de Gascogne wine category as the region’s locomotive. Approximately 80% of Cotes de Gascogne wines are exported. With a smile on her face Victoire remarks:

We can make wine anywhere, but we can only make Armagnac here.

For this reason Victoire has remained steadfast in her pursuit of distilling and making top-class Armagnac.

Previously the domaine had 5 hectares of folle blanche; today, only 2.7 hectares are planted to folle blanche, which is entirely destined for Armagnac production. During turbulent years climatically speaking, all can be lost - such as in 2022.

We got hail last year (2022) that I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. It was just a horrible 2022.

June 3, 2022 was the day for Domaine de Danis, but another late summer episode followed in the region on August 16, although that second incident did not impact the domaine’s vines. Victoire makes a form with her hand to indicate the golf ball size of the hail. Without any exaggeration, there are still holes in certain parts of the chai’s rooftop due to this devastating hail incident. To put the gravity of this ravaging hail into perspective, in 2022 Domaine de Danis’ 40 hectares only produced 400 hectoliters of wine. The 6 hectares of gros manseng for Cotes de Gascogne production were entirely lost. Moreover, there was no folle blanche at all in 2022, a devastating blow for the domaine’s Armagnac production. Consequently, there was no distillation in 2022, and there will be no eventual 2022 vintage Armagnac. Moreover, some young vines were planted during the 2022 year. They got massacred by the hail and the intense sun that followed severely impacted the vine grafts, essentially melting the grafts.

It’s personal accounts like Victoire’s that serve as a reminder that the wines and spirits we love are ultimately governed by nature.

Getting back to 2022, there was however a sliver of good news from the year. In the 2022 Talents de l’Armagnac Concours des Grands Eaux-des-Vie Armagnac, the Domaine de Danis 2004 took home the Prix du Grand Jury. This combines all Armagnac from all production zones and age categories. To give some context, this uniquely Armagnac competition consists of 62 professional tasters blindly tasting and selecting 12 Grand Or winners, 24 Gold Medal winners, and 17 Silver Medal winners from different categories. Then for the main event, 12 experts choose and award the Prix du Grand Jury for the entire competition (the Oscar equivalent of Best Picture). So this is not some pay-to-play commercial spirits competition that will flood magazines and other press material. The trophy and plaque sit proudly in the entryway of the domaine. The trophy will be handed back at the end of the year, but Victoire already has her sights set on which Armagnac to present for 2023.

Comments about Armagnac and the Armagnacais

Naturally, the comparison and contrast to Cognac is a topic of conversation. The notion of regional locomotives was already mentioned above. If we can even say there is a regional locomotive, we’d give that title to the Cotes de Gascogne wines. Victoire has some other comments about the mentality of the Armagnacais (a person from the Armagnac region):

I can tell you what I think are the strengths and weaknesses of Armagnac: We are very strong in terms of production. We have a product (Armagnac) that really is top level. However, we have a very independent character; we have trouble associating with others. For some of the negociants in the region - and you’ll see there are not that many in the region - they are often held by large corporate groups with close ties to Cognac, and often they produce Armagnacs whose names are not at all known in the region. These groups’ primary interest is to have an Armagnac in the range. That’s it. They have their way of working which is very reproducible, but that is not typically Armagnacais.

However, Victoire is quick to point out that the presence of these negociants is positive for the region and the spirit, especially for export. She is simply making the point that these outside negociants are not typically Armagnacais.

We are in no position to comment on the character of the Armagnacais; we’ll leave that to Victoire and the region’s other producers. But we can indeed attest to the presence of these larger Cognac-based groups putting out seemingly generic Armagnacs for a more mainstream market. What’s clear is that they do not move in parallel with Armagnac producers like Domaine de Danis - different markets, different audiences, different Armagnacs and overall different experiences with the spirit really. Make no mistake about it, Armagnacs from Domaine de Danis are the real deal! Victoire makes another interesting comment (with a smile on her face) on the character of the Armagnacais.

One thing you will see and learn while in the Armagnac region: The producer is more than happy to sell his or her product, but there will always be a tear in the eye once the Armagnac leaves the cellar.

Interesting insights to say the least.

Folle Blanche

Before we get to the Armagnacs, we must give some paragraphs to folle blanche, particularly Victoire’s affinity for this grape and all that it has to offer. In our eyes Domaine de Danis is the folle blanche specialist - perhaps even the queen of folle blanche. She speaks with such conviction and passion as to why this grape is so magical. It’s contagious! For her, folle blanche is all about the “complexity of notes.” Period. Despite seeing Folle Blanche appearing more frequently on Armagnac labels these days, the grape variety still has only a marginal role in Armagnac. In fact, the number of hectares planted to folle blanche in the region has not increased - if anything, it’s gone down. It is an interesting contrast: the number of bottlings with folle blanche on the label seems to increase, but the hectares planted to the grape are actually stable or decreasing.

Folle Blanche does not deserve mediocrity in terms of how it is raised.

At harvest especially the grape deserves extreme care and attention. If it is determined that the folle blanche is in a perfect stage for harvesting, it needs to happen right away. The window for harvest is much smaller, much more precise. Victoire comments:

One needs to be very vigilant with folle blanche because rot can arrive and spread very fast.

As noted previously, all Armagnac production at the domaine since 1982 is done with folle blanche, which is limited to only Armagnac production.

The bonus of using ugni blanc and colombard is that they can serve to make a great Cotes de Gascogne wine and a good Armagnac. With folle blanche at Domaine de Danis, no, this is not possible because the acidity is very high and the alcoholic degree is rather low (two very important factors for Armagnac), which is suitable for distillation but not necessarily wines.

So the possibilities in terms of production are more limited with folle blanche.

We casually mention our observation that for the few and far between folle blanche Cognacs we see, they are typically bottled at 10 years of age. It is very rare to see a 100% folle blanche Cognac with significant age. Victoire makes the following comment about the ability of folle blanche eaux-de-vie to age:

I’ve always heard that folle blanche is a great grape but it is resistant to aging, 10-15 year maximum. No, not true. The proof is in the tasting. Take some of my folle blanches from the 1980s, for example: they are holding up strong, and they are still in the barrel.

We can unequivocally say that after nosing and tasting these Armagnacs, folle blanche can go the distance. The aromas and flavors all remain intact. And the elegance only seems to increase exponentially as they age. Stunning stuff. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves here. Let’s explore more production details from Domaine de Danis.

Distillation, reduction, and other production details

The conversation carries over into the chai, since Victoire insists on all tasting be done in the chai. We are of course joined by her golden retriever.

Distillation takes place with one of the region’s distillateur ambulants - Marc Saint Martin. Victoire is present for the entire distillation process and insists on the following: distillation to the lowest degree possible. Recall that one vital difference from Cognac we’ve quickly learned while in the Armagnac region is that the Armagnac AOC cahier des charges allows the eaux-de-vie to drip from the still anywhere between 52% and 72.4% alcohol (Recall that eaux-de-vie which will make Cognac leaves the still between 70% and 72% generally speaking). At Domaine de Danis, the aim is to have spirit run off the still at the lowest allowable end of the alcohol degree window - so 52-53%. This permits her to not reduce her Armagnacs at all with water, only time.

Victoire is equally adamant on a long aging period. There are 41 vintages in the chai, but many of them are still considered babies and will not be bottled any time soon. Victoire does not reduce any of her Armagnacs. This is an obvious choice to make in terms of preserving the quality of the aroma, flavor, texture, etc. But there is such a thing as too much of an alcoholic degree, especially for her classic French market. Therein lies the dilemma: she wants to bottle Armagnacs unreduced (brut de fut) but not at too high of an alcohol level. Without adding any water, the only option is to wait.

My reductions are always done, but with time alone. That’s it.

Needless to say, color and other stuff is not added to the Armagnacs. Nothing is there to interfere with the clarity, elegance and precision inherent to the folle blanche.

In terms of barrels, the domaine previously worked exclusively with a local tonnellerie in Castelnau. That person has since retired and so now the domaine works with Bartholomo. This tonnellerie change might seem innocent enough, but it comes with its own challenges. In short, nothing is set in stone in terms of an oak policy. Victoire goes by smell and taste alone. With the previous local barrel producer, she knew her desired chauffe perfectly, and it was remarkably consistent. The fresh eau-de-vie could easily stay for one year in the new oak. With the move to Bartholomo, the same chauffe was requested, but even though the quality was top notch, the chauffe was just not the same and needed a slight adjustment. A chauffe from one producer to another can vary ever so slightly. She intially found that only 6 months would suffice in new oak. Consequently, the chauffe has been adjusted over time to a lighter chauffe, and she could not be happier with the results with Bartholomo. All that being said, a year with a difficult climate and zero harvest to be distilled means no new barrels get purchased. Consequently, the orders are not as regular, and the momentum with the barrel producers is trickier to find. Think about it, if during a rough period of years a producer only needs to purchase one, two, or no new barrels at all, it may be harder to get to know that tonnellier's work.

Concerning the chais, there are two cellars which house the 41 vintages of Armagnac, one dry and the other relatively humid. The Armagnac rests in either traditional Armagnac pieces (400-420 liters) or large cylindrical tonneau. It’s worth noting that the oak impact is notably different between a piece and a tonneau. However, a tonneau requires less space in the cellar.

The Armagnacs

We are immensely pleased to present a careful selection of Armagnac vintages from Domaine de Danis. We could not dream of a better fit for Bonjour Drinks. On to the Armagnacs…

Note: If Folle Blanche is not marked on the label, then the Armagnac is from before the Domaine de Danis folle blanche era - so before 1982 - and is made from a blend of Ugni Blanc and Baco.

Danis 2006 Cask #13 Vintage Armagnac

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze

Bottle size: 700ml

ABV: 47%

Additives: No additives, natural color, naturally reduced (Brut de Fut)

Armagnac age: Vintage 2006

The youngest folle blanche bottled and sold by the domaine. In fact the most dynamic. Seductive, intense and complex. Remarkably long on the palate.

$ 73

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Exclusively available

Danis 1993 Cask #3 Vintage Armagnac

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze

Bottle size: 700ml

ABV: 42%

Additives: No additives, natural color, naturally reduced (Brut de Fut)

Armagnac age: Vintage 1993

Thirty years of age. The characteristic hallmarks of Danis folle blanche are present. Subtle.

$ 102

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Exclusively available

Danis 1993 Cask #3 Vintage Armagnac

Danis 1982 Vintage Armagnac

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze

Bottle size: 700ml

ABV: 40%

Additives: No additives, natural color, naturally reduced (Brut de Fut)

Armagnac age: Vintage 1982

The first folle blanche from the estate. A nose of great complexity. The same explosion of fruit and spice aromas on the palate, with a slightly resinous note and a finish that leaves a delicious sensation of freshness. The elegance of folle blanche.

$ 134

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Exclusively available

Danis 1983 Cask #5 Vintage Armagnac

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze

Bottle size: 700ml

ABV: 41%

Additives: No additives, natural color, naturally reduced (Brut de Fut)

Armagnac age: Vintage 1983

With this 1983 we have the confirmation of the beautiful aromatic expression of folle blanche grown at Danis: a true identity...finesse and complexity.

$ 129

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Exclusively available

Danis 1983 Cask #5 Vintage Armagnac

Exclusively available

Danis 1979 Tonneau #7 Vintage Armagnac

Exclusively available

Danis 1979 Tonneau #7 Vintage Armagnac

Growth area: Armagnac Ténarèze

Bottle size: 700ml

ABV: 46%

Additives: No additives, natural color, naturally reduced (Brut de Fut)

Armagnac age: Vintage 1979

A great classic. The Armagnac markers are there! Powerful, rich nose. Clean, well-balanced palate, round tannins. Long-lasting finish.

$ 151

excl. TAX excl. shipping

Closing Thoughts

A special thanks goes out to Victoire at Domaine de Danis. It took only a few short seconds chatting with Victoire to fully understand the passion and conviction with which she works at the domaine - for wine production and Armagnac production alike. Her passion for Armagnac, and particularly folle blanche, is simply contagious. There’s folle blanche and then there’s Danis folle blanche! No joke, if you’ve never given the grape variety much thought, think again. And the Armagnacs from before the folle blanche era are equally as lovely - more in line with our preconceived notions about classic traditional Armagnac.

We don’t merely like Domaine de Danis Armagnacs; we love them. There was not a single Armagnac in her cellar that did not agree with us. And what’s fascinating is that there is an Armagnac for everyone in her cellar. But what remains true is they all have an unmistakable Danis signature, marked by high-pitched expressive aromas, supreme elegance, and utmost purity.

In short, Domaine de Danis is a perfect fit for Bonjour Drinks. We couldn’t be more happy and proud to feature a selection of Victoire’s Armagnacs. Our mission has always been to showcase and protect Cognac’s diversity, and you know what, that same core mission now extends to Armagnac, because the diversity, the overall attention to quality, and the respect for the region and spirit have thus far left us speechless.

Cheers to Domaine de Danis…and to folle blanche.

The oldest spirit in the world

What is Armagnac?

Armagnac is often compared to Cognac, which is its closest relative, but the two are quite distinct in terms of soil type, climate, grapes, distillation methods, aging techniques, and taste. The history of Armagnac dates back to Roman times, when the region was inhabited by various tribes that were conquered by the Romans. One of the soldiers, Hermann, was given a large piece of land in the region as a reward for his bravery. The territory was later named Hermanius, which was shortened to Arminius and then, over time, became Armagnac.

Today, the Armagnac region is a picturesque agricultural area that is famous for producing high-quality eau-de-vie, amongst many other things. The region's inhabitants are closely connected to the earth and depend on its products for their livelihood. While many small independent producers sell their product only at their domaines and do not export, they form the backbone of the Armagnac region and give it its unique soul.