Join us as we explore the unique process of distilling traditional Armagnac, a one-time distillation that produces a more complex and flavorful spirit than double-distilled products like whiskey, gin, vodka, and Cognac. The continuous still used in Armagnac is a primitive version of the modern column still, dating back to the beginning of the century. Unlike industrial models, which can potentially heat the wine to the same degree as a pot still, traditional Armagnac stills cannot heat the wine to above 120 proof. Most alambics produce three to four barrels in a 24-hour period and sometimes as little as one or two, compared to industrial stills that can distill up to 20 barrels a day.

Unlike with a pot still, the heads and tails are normally retained in traditional Armagnac, giving it a more complex and flavorful taste - sometimes more rustic too. The alambic armagnacais being squat and stable, smaller and more primitive than its cognac equivalent. The alambic armagnacaise is normally portable, enabling distillation to be performed right on each producer's property.

How does it work? Wine is gravity-fed into the wine-warmer and heated by the upper part of the condensing coil. From there, it flows into the main column, where it gets hotter and hotter as it flows over the copper plates. When it reaches the lower boiler, it finally begins to steam and evaporate. The alcoholic vapors rise back through the plates, continually being forced into contact with the incoming wine, resulting in a vapor saturated with rich wine aromas. The armagnac vapors exit through the top of the column and into the condensing coil, where they cool and change from steam into liquid. The liquid eau-de-vie then flows into the wood cask, where it will age and develop complex nuances.

The amount of alcohol produced ranges from 52° to 60°, depending on the initial alcoholic content of the wine. Each still has a particular capacity for the amount of spirit it can distill in a day, and most portable alambics can distill anywhere from 4 to 6 barrels a day. Nowadays, those who regulate the still normally work in 12-hour shifts.

The non-alcohol components, comprising congeners, esters, and acids, are what give traditional armagnac its flavor. With time, these components age, developing subtle and complex nuances. Armagnac is meant to be drunk after 15 or 20 years of maturation, where the non-alcohols begin to oxidize and express themselves with an interesting nut-scented complexity known as rancio. Unfortunately, the market is dominated by young Armagnacs ranging from 3 to 5 years of age, where double-distillation strips away the esters and acids, and the neutral base is adjusted with permitted additives to create its flavor.

As we reflect on the intricate process of distilling traditional Armagnac, we can truly appreciate the dedication and artistry of the distillers who have perfected this intricate skill.

There are two types of distillation that are authorized in Armagnac making; the first and most predominantly used method is the Per Ascensum, known as Armagnacaise, produced by the first continuous jet still – used for 95% of the production. The result of this single distillation process gives the eau-de-vie more flavor and character than Cognac, which is typically distilled twice. The Per Descensum distillation method, known as the Cognacaise, is also authorised in Armagnac production, producing the spirit by the double-heating still. This Cognac distillation method was authorised in 1972 for Armagnac production although it is not widely used – it produces a refined and fine eau-de-vie that should be enjoyed as a young spirit.

Requiring levels of skill only obtained through decades of experience, the distillation process usually takes place around the end of October through to mid-November, however, this can vary depending on the weather and availability of the local ‘alembic still’ the mobile distilling machine.

Upon distillation, the alcohol levels are between 50% and 58%, so some producers will age and then dilute to the minimum 40% at the bottling stage, but many prefer to keep that extra few percent.

Made of copper, an alembic contains two chambers, one with a serpent coil inside surrounded by the cold eau-de-vie, which is then heated gently either by a wood fire or gas (which gives a controllable temperature). The vapours are then condensed with the use of a series of small hat-like configurations within the second chamber that trickle out before being barrelled.

The cellar master and their team must test the eau-de-vie by tasting it and working the machine to produce the desired preference and flavor. This is a 24/7 job that can take several weeks, depending on the year’s harvest. Often two workers (traditionally father and son) will take turns of shift – filling the barrels that are usually made of local French oak.