The house works with four qualities of Cognac, and the ages behind them are well above the legal minimums for each name. Sélection is a five-year-old, which the family considers a mixing Cognac rather than a sipping one, lively and already open. VSOP is a ten-year-old, old enough to hold its own in a glass but with the roundness that makes a serious cocktail. Napoléon is a twenty-year-old, and it is the house's best seller: sweet, broad, generous, with the vanilla note the family likes to keep from the younger spirit. It is also the bottle that carries the house look best, dark green glass that reads almost black in the hand, and that old fashioned script on cream paper that practically no one prints any more. The same twenty-year-old quality also appears as Vieille Réserve in a 50 cl bottle. At the top, the XO is a different animal: still 40% ABV, but far more powerful in the glass, exotic and spiced. "The XO is magic," they told us, before adding, honestly, that some tasters find it simply too much and are happier with the Napoléon.
Alongside the Cognacs the estate makes Pineau des Charentes in white, from Ugni Blanc and Colombard grown on its limestone slopes, and in red from Merlot, plus older Vieil Or and Vieux Rouge cuvées. There is also a 60% Cognac à brûlot, kept for the Charentais tradition of flaming a coffee, and, for those who arrive with children, sparkling grape juice from the same vines.